Weeds in an aged lawn, or in a new one, can perfectly be combated with chemical weed-killers such as 2.4-D compounds. Using a granulated chemical with a spreader is occasionally preferable to a fluid spray. Spray should be used on a day when there is no wind as drifting spray kills and harms vegetables, flowers and shrubs. Provide your lawn after spraying against weeds, so that the grass can become thicker and fill in the bare spots before long.

Yet, one should keep in mind that an excellent choice to prevent weeds in the first place is to have a healthy lawn, with good soil providing sufficient nutrient for the grass you plant. Weeds come in after, when the lawn is wrongly thinned for one motive or another. For instance, a lawn may be thinned by diseases which are overlooked in our haste to lay the blame on weeds. It is true for diseases that occasionally assault turf, too, that prevention steps are the best, and that a healthy turf will be better able to ward off the disorders that come after.

As earlier stated, a mixture of seeds is more resistant to disease. Maximum moisture in the soil seems to be a source of many diseases. Another origin is poor circulation of air for the grass roots, due to near-by trees, shrubs, and buildings. You can't do much about this by pruning.

Close mowing causes some diseases thereafter it weakens the grass and causes more succulent growth, which, in turn, brings about fungal attacks. If the mowing tallness is not below 1 1/2 inches, even though the lower leaves may be attacked, the newer leaves may not be.

Watering in the evening hours is a poor usage because if the grass remains wet at night, disease is invited. And if you practice fertilizer to energize turf grasses, do so in the early spring and fall when the grass is healthful, not during the summer when the leaf is succulent and tender and readily attacked by disease.

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